FAQ: Why Do Roofers Charge for Extra Layers of Shingles or Felt?

Homeowners are often surprised to see extra charges for removing multiple layers of shingles or felt—but there’s a good reason. In this post, we explain why hidden roofing layers matter, how they impact labor costs, and what to watch for during the inspection process.

Q: Don’t you inspect for this ahead of time?
A: Yes—we always check for multiple layers of shingles and felt during inspection. On older homes or DIY additions we often examine multiple roof sections to identify any hidden layers. However, we don’t inspect every single square inch, and occasionally layers are hidden in areas we can’t see. The picture below is an example where the roofer removed the first two rows of the old roof (brown shingles) so that it wouldn’t be evident.

An old roof with the first two rows of shingles removed.

Q: Why would another roofer leave extra layers on?
A: It’s bad practice, but it happens. Some roofers cover over old materials to save time—especially if it starts raining or they want to avoid dry rot repairs. This violates manufacturer guidelines and voids warranties. They often hide the evidence in areas not easily inspected.

Q: Why does it cost extra?
A: Removing hidden layers takes significantly more time. Older shingles and felt can be brittle and break into pieces, making removal and cleanup slow and labor-intensive. We simply charge our standard hourly rate for the additional labor as outlined in the bid.

Q: What it the extra layers are not noted in the original bid?
A: If the roofing contractor does not find evidence of extra layers during the initial inspection, they can’t include it. But when discovered during the tear-off they will. If we find extra layers or other unforeseen costs, we include photos and itemize this on your final invoice.

Q: What should I do if bids disagree on the number of layers?
A: Let the inspector know about the discrepancy between the reported number of layers. Ask each roofer to show photo evidence and explain where and how they checked. If bids disagree, it may not mean someone is wrong, it may be that they inspected different roof areas. Communicate your concerns early to ensure everyone give an “apples to apples” bid and avoid additional costs later.

FAQ: Is 3/8″ Plywood Good Enough for My Roof?

We’re often asked about different roofing materials. One question we encounter a lot is this: Is 3/8″ plywood a viable roofing solution?

It might pass code, but that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. After replacing thousands of roofs, we’ve seen the same pattern: 3/8″ plywood doesn’t hold up. It’s too thin, softens over time, and often needs to be replaced prematurely—especially on second-time roof jobs.

Here’s why we don’t recommend it:

  • Prone to delamination: Layers separate over time, especially after moisture exposure.
  • Insufficient nail hold: Shingles can loosen more easily due to weaker fastener retention.
  • Not load-rated for reroofing: Doesn’t reliably support worker weight or heavier modern roofing materials.
  • Fails under stress: More likely to sag or flex, especially between rafters.
  • No margin for error: Leaves little buffer for moisture, foot traffic, or minor framing issues.

Our standard: We recommend upgrading to 1/2″ CDX plywood or 7/16″ OSB for strength, safety, and long-term peace of mind.

You’re not just taking our word for it:
Roofing professionals across the industry widely agree—3/8″ sheathing may be technically allowed, but thicker materials like 1/2″ plywood or 7/16″ OSB are the standard for durability, safety, and proper long-term performance.